How better to alleviate an unrelenting sense of FOMO where NYFW’s concerned, than to chime in with my favourite pieces of the season? I’d like to thank the handful of brands/party hosters who emailed me with invites over the past week but alas, I have been stuck in fair Blighty with about ten quid to my name. Maybe next time. Fly me over, yeah?
Whilst my day-to-day sartorial uniform consists of trusty black-on-black, catwalk shows that convey more than shapeless beige/tonal shades really resonate with me (*cough* sorry DKNY). The intricate craftsmanship that is endlessly apparent from Marchesa is as close to classic fine art as the fashion world gets. With a floral update from SS16’s focus on glitz and volume, this collection looks like the result of The Great Gatsby throwing a Valentine’s party. And I want an invite.
Ralph Lauren was something of a mixed bag this season. Starting off with a theme that conjured images of Gossip Girls’ Blair Waldorf at a 70s throwback school disco; ending on a jewel-toned medley of evening gowns, variation was key. However, the standout looks for me had to be the monochrome offering, with slick tailoring contrasting against exaggerated blouse ruffles – think Adam Ant after a packet of face-wipes and a blow-dry.
The first two dresses in this segment are some of the only ‘Ready-to-Wear’ pieces I’ve seen that are plausibly ready-to-wear – though perhaps not whilst you’re mooching around ASDA of a Thursday eve. The geometric cut-outs bring a quirky twist on two somewhat traditional styles, with the velvet of the black dress sending me back to my purple velvet catsuit days of the nineties (I was 10, don’t judge me). The latter styles scream opulence, with another insurgence of roses akin to those of Marchesa, elevating two of my favourite hues – pillarbox red and ebony black – high onto the trend ladder. Yaasss.
A label that, admittedly, had never crossed my path before, RR331 surprisingly knocked Proenza Schouler off my list for this rundown. I love a good staple black piece, but my tendency to veer towards safer options is obliterated with this collection and I’m more than willing to take the risk. With asymmetrical hems and outlandish silhouettes, RR331’s ability to remain sophisticated and classic, whilst straddling the kooky and unique, encapsulates the contrasting ethoi of its designers Ralph Rucci and Sander Lak. The former, a veteran American couturier, creates pieces that are driven by exquisite fabrics and lines, whilst the latter – 30 years Rucci’s junior – designs with youth and a casual edge, resulting in this delightfully contradictory pairing.